Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Flair House--214 West Erie


Flair House at 214 West Erie (JWB, 2010)
One day last summer she who is wiser than I and meself were strolling down Erie Street toward the Erie Café and Montgomery Ward Park when I spotted a most peculiar and lovely building on the north side of the street between Wells and Franklin.  Settled gently into a bed of flowers with the sculpture of a maiden in the window above the front door, backlit by a glimmering chandelier, this, I found out, was 214 West Erie.  Better known as Flair House, the “house” is actually the headquarters for the Flair Communications Agency.

The advertising agency was started by Lee Flaherty, a Renaissance man if ever there were one.  After three years in the Army as a paratrooper with the 11th Airborne Division, Mr. Flaherty entered the University of California at Berkeley, graduating with a degree in Marketing in 1957. He worked in San Francisco for seven years before coming to Chicago.  In the mid-sixties he borrowed $8,500 from his mother, who mortgaged her California home to come up with the loan, and started his own company in the 1883 building on Erie Street. 

In addition to building a multi-million dollar company with an international reputation, Mr. Flaherty also was the founder of the Chicago Marathon, providing a $50,000 infusion of sorely needed cash for the first modern Chicago Marathon in 1977.  He also funded the second marathon a year later.  Mr. Flaherty also was the founder of the World’s Largest Block Party at Old St. Pat’s at Desplaines and Madison.  Guys like Mr. Flaherty make this city the place that it is, and his civic consciousness has brought him any number of awards over the years.

(JWB, 2010)
His selection of the old three-story house on Erie Street as the place where he would start his business, though, ranks right up there with the greatest of his achievements.  There was no “River North” back in 1964; the area north of the river was a hodge-podge of old warehouses and manufacturing buildings.  The work that began at 214 West Erie spread across the decades until the few blocks just north of the river have become the hot spot that we turn to today when we’re looking for a linen tablecloth and a nice glass of Russian River zinfandel.

When Mr. Flaherty moved into the house, it had no plumbing or electricity, and he paid $85 a month to rent the place.  Within a year he purchased it for $20,000, paying his mom back at the same time.  The main conference center in Flair House is named “The Frances Room” in her honor.  It took 20 years to restore the place, an ambitious effort complicated by the fact that half the structure had been destroyed in a 1929 fire.

According to the plaque that hangs on the front of Flair House, Marcus Devine, an Irish immigrant who became a milk merchant, had the house built for his wife, Eliza, and the couple’s six sons and daughters.  His generous contribution of dairy products was just one of the many acts of generosity that the citizens of Chicago witnessed after the Great Fire of October, 1871.

The delivery of milk was an important occupation back in the days when the water couldn’t be trusted and not everyone wanted to start pounding back ale at 7:00 in the morning.  By 1892 The Chicago Tribune estimated that it required 150,000 cows to supply the city’s need for milk.  Lined up single-file, those cows would form a 227-mile long parade that would take six days to pass a single point.

Before raw milk could be put in cans and shipped to the city, it had to be cooled to at least 60°.  Many farms lay some distance from the nearest railroad station, so everyone on the farm was involved in a grinding existence.  Most farm boys between the age of 12 and 16 never saw more than five hours of sleep in a night; milking could begin as early as 3:00 in the morning.

(JWB, 2010)
Most of Chicago’s the 337,500 gallons of milk that made up the city’s daily supply came to the city over the Chicago and Northwestern railroad, the only railroad having regular milk trains into Chicago.  The “Milk Express” was made of 19 yellow-painted baggage cars and brought 4,000 eight-gallon cans of pure milk into Chicago every morning over the Fox River branch.  The train arrived at the Clinton Street station at 10:15 in the morning where hundreds of milkmen were waiting with their horse-drawn wagons.  As late as the 1890’s there were 2,700 milk dealers in the city, all in competition with each other.

That competition forced down prices, so that it was almost impossible to make a profit.  Often the milk wagons carried three grades of “milk.”  One grade had four quarts of unfiltered lake water added to eight gallons of milk.  The higher grade had two quarts of lake water added to the eight gallons of milk.  The third can consisted of pure milk.  It was the milkman who decided who got what.

Dr. C. E. Peck, Vice-President of the Bowman Dairy company with offices on North State Street, said, “Prices are cut so that pure milk cannot be sold.  There is no sophistication.  But reputable dealers make no practice of carrying more than one grade of milk.  Among the best dealers who sell the purest goods to the wealthy families there is little competition.”

(JWB, 2010)
And that brings us back to Flair House because it was good old Marcus Devine, the man who built the house on Erie Street, who sold his company to the Bowman Dairy company of St. Louis on February 6, 1885.  Dr. Peck, who spoke in the above article, was the son-in-law of J. R. Bowman, who founded the St. Louis milk company in 1874 with a horse he borrowed from his father’s farm and a rented wagon.

And old Marcus Devine, the original owner of the beautifully restored 214 West Erie, has another claim to fame, it seems.  For it was Mr. Devine, way back in 1876, who challenged the Board of Commissioners of Cook County in a case that went all the way to the Illinois Supreme Court.

It seems that the commissioners had passed a resolution authorizing the preparation of bonds up to a total of $1,000,000, payable at six per cent interest per annum for a period of 20 years.  The bond issue was for the erection of “necessary public buildings, for funding floating indebtedness, and for other purposed specified.”

Mr. Devine’s argument was three-fold.  First, he argued that the resolution contravened the clause in the Illinois constitution that forbade the passage of local or special laws.  Secondly, if there ever was a clause that allowed the Cook County Board’s action, it had been contravened in a later law.  And, finally, that “before the board of commissioners can have any rightful authority to issue bonds for any purpose named in the resolution they must submit the question of issuing such bonds to the legal voters of the county, at a general election.”

(JWB, 2011)
What was the result of the suit?  Marcus Devine, the milk merchant, won!  Early in 1877 the Illinois Supreme Court declared, “It follows, from the reasoning of the propositions stated, the board of commissioners of Cook county have no power, under the law, to issue bonds for any purpose named in the resolution adopted, unless authorized by a vote of the legal voters of the county, to whom the question of issuing such bonds shall have been submitted at a general election, after the amount and object for which it was proposed to issue bonds had been first ascertained.  That has not been done, and hence there is a total want of authority to issue the proposed bonds, and any one whose property will be affected by a tax tied to pay the interest or principal may enjoin the issuing of such bonds.”

So it’s quite a place there on Erie Street.  It was quite a place back in the nineteenth century, and Mr. Flaherty has paid the legacy forward.  The ultimate payoff . . . if you keep walking, you end up at Montgomery Ward Park and the Erie Café.  There could be a lot worse ways to spend two or three hours on a warm Chicago day.  

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Chicago: A Look Back at March 8


(JWB, 2008)

March 8, 1876
A regular meeting of the Board of Trustees of the Town of Lakeview was held at which a petition for opening Lill Avenue “through Block 16, from Sheffield to Lincoln Avenue” was tabled. (It must still be on the table.  Lill still ends at Sheffield.)  Also at the meeting S. B. Chase was granted permission to lay a two-inch wrought iron pipe at his own expense on Belmont Avenue “for the use of water at his house and other residents on the said street, who cannot procure the same on account of objections being filed against the assessment by Mr. Young, owning property on the south side of said avenue.”  (I’m guessing Mr. Young spent most of his time avoiding the stink eyes that his thirsty neighbors cast toward him.)

Also on this date came the report of a huge fire at 105 and 107 South Water street, midway between LaSalle and Clark streets.  First noticed by two detectives on their way home, a second alarm was sounded as the flames quickly engulfed the four-story building.  Two men had to be rescued from the second floor as 11 streams of water were directed at the inferno.  No. 165 was occupied by E. C. Reichwald & Co., William Little & Sons, and Bartholomew & Fordham.  No. 165 was occupied by Wayne & Low and McClay & Tucker.  Poor Bartholomew & Fordham . . . no insurance and losses close to $4,000.

March 8, 1893
A health inspector was dispatched to the area around Belden and Webster after numerous complaints about the filthy condition of the alleys in that area.  City ordinances stipulated that garbage should be removed at least once a week, but the contractor, according to the area’s residents, “has not removed any for more than two weeks and generally lets intervals of two to three weeks pass between his visits.  In addition it is said that the men who do the work pile their wagons so full that they leave a line of refuse along the streets as they are driven away.”  Ex-Alderman William Eisfeldt was the contractor responsible for removing garbage in the district.

(JWB, 2010)
And not far away . . . T. C. McNary, a student at the McCormick Theological Seminary, had an encounter with a coyote in Lincoln Park and found himself “laid up with three serious wounds in his left ankle as a result of contact with the coyote’s teeth.”  It seems that the theological students drank nothing but water from the Lincoln Park spring and Mr. McNary and a friend were at the spring with their water jugs for a week’s supply.  As they returned they passed the coyote den where one of the critters jumped over the wall and attached itself to Mr. McNary’s ankle.  “The young man belabored the coyote with his water jug . . .” when his friend came to his aid, throwing his coat over the animals head as a crowd “sprang on the enraged animal and after a desperate struggle the coyote was thrown back into the den.” The physician who attended Mr. McNary did not believe that hydrophobia (the word used for rabies at the time) would set in.

And in New York . . . Representatives of the 12 National League baseball teams met at the Fifth Avenue Hotel. James A. Hart represented Chicago.  B-I-G events, afoot!  The Committee on Rules recommended “removal of the pitcher from his present position to the center of the infield, abolishing the pitcher’s box, and substituting therefore a boundary plate covering a twelve-inch space, to which the pitcher will be confined; abolition of the flat bat; a lucid definition of a balk; a rule governing official scorers which provides that a player who makes a sacrifice hit which advances a base runner shall not be charged with a time at bat.”  Six clubs opposed placing the pitcher in the center of the diamond:  Boston, Cleveland, Pittsburg, Chicago, St. Louis and Louisville.  Chicago actually wanted no pitcher at all, but wanted the batter to hit the ball off a tee.  (That’s not true.  I made that up.  Sorry.)

March 8, 1911
“Lambasted with arguments that dated from Moses to McCulloch, petted and palavered by pretty women, plastered with sizzling attire, puffed up with pride, and then pushed into a tank of ice water, the Illinois legislators, at the windup of the Chicago-Springfield suffrage junket today, had the harrowing experience of their lives.”  So began the Tribune article of the push for a woman’s right to vote in Springfield.  No sooner were the legislators seated “then Mrs. Catharine Waugh McCulloch and Miss Jane Addams, with the help of representatives from forty women’s organizations of Chicago and the state, dragged howitzers, mortars, canister, and shrapnel guns into position and for two hours shelled the legislature in a fashion never known before.”

“We are not asking you for suffrage; we demand it,” shouted Mrs. Raymond Robins, pounding the speaker’s desk.

“We are dreadfully tired of the soft twaddle of procrastination,” said Mrs. Grace W. Trout, president of the Chicago Political Equality League.

The “Suffrage Special” traveled to Springfield from Chicago with 300 suffragettes on board.  At Kankakee a crowd of 1,500 people greeted the special.  Miss Kate O’Connor of Rockford addressed the crowd, “We are going down to Springfield to stir up the animals.  It is spring now and there’s going to be the almightiest housecleaning in this state ever you heard of.  They may hand us a bouquet with a string to it, but we’ll get away with it anyway and when we get things as we want them the state will be so clean you won’t have any mud on your streets.”

But . . . some business did get done down there in Springpatch.  Representative Benton F. Kleeman of Chicago introduced a bill in the house providing for the creation of a Chicago harbor in Lake Calumet.  In the bill the Sanitary District of Chicago was given full power and authority to construct the harbor, which was to cover not less than 300 acres with a depth of 21 feet.

March 8, 1934
In a Tribune column,  columnist Antoinette Donnelly replied to “Indignant,” who wrote that “a woman head of her department took her aside the other day and requested that she forget the bright nail polish during her business day.  ‘The old cat,’ the young business woman calls her superior, ‘is jealous.  She said the boss asked her to speak to me.  I don’t believe it because he never said anything himself.’”

Ms. Donnelly’s reply: “In all probability the boss did speak to the woman superior to intercede, in his behalf, against the flashing nail tip.  Some men simply do not like the stuff.  It’s distracting, and when they’re dictating letters they don’t want distraction . . . Better take the hint, Indignant.  Also, get the idea out of your head that some one who takes you aside and tells you something for your own good is an old cat.  It’s not a success-making frame of mind toward a superior, anyway. . . After all, the boss isn’t interested in being vamped.  Not the kind you’re going to get anywhere with in a business way.  There’s a time and place for everything.”

In Washington, D. C., freshman congressman from the 16th District Everett Dirksen demanded legislation “to impose a quota on the importation of foreign blackstrap molasses to prevent its competition with corn and other grains in the manufacture of American alcohol and liquor.”  Prohibition had ended a year earlier and an agreement administered by the federal alcohol control board stipulated that American distillers must use only domestic cereal grain in the production of alcohol.  But the UNBELIEVABLE shortage of alcohol in the country allowed the use of huge quantities of Cuban molasses.  Dirksen pointed out that despite the Depression and Prohibition, imports of blackstrap molasses into the country increased from 31,000,000 gallons in 1909 to 205 million gallons in 1932.  Dirksen believed that a quota on Cuba’s shipments to the United States would regulate the flow of blackstrap so as to protect the American grain producers’ market.  A most propitious beginning to a career that lasted into the 1960’s.

(JWB, 2010)
And in Chicago . . . speaking at a luncheon of the Chicago Association of Commerce at the Palmer House Japanese Prince Iyesato Tokugawa “scoffed at the ‘so-called danger of war’ between his country and the United States.  “We must not forget,” the prince said, “that these close trade relations between us stand on a basis of the most friendly sentiment, which has always characterized the intercourse between the two countries since the opening of Japan in the middle of the last century.  You may take from me an assurance that it is the ardent wish of the majority of the Japanese people that these happy relations should never be disturbed and the Pacific ocean should always be true to its name.”


All articles in this blog were found in the archives of The Chicago Tribune.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Happy Birthday, Chicago!


(JWB, 2011)

Well, you probably got the word that Chicago celebrated a big event this past weekend – 175 years since the Illinois State legislature approved the document incorporating the city on March 4, 1837. 

She wasn’t much to brag about back in those days, a swampy mess, hugging a lazy river that divided the boggy hamlet into thirds.  But she had a big lake immediately to her east and a big, big river off to the west, and the economic dynamics of a rapidly expanding country made her, in short order, a rich gal.

The proposal for incorporation was placed before a mass meeting on January 23, 1837 at what was called the “Saloon Building” at the corner of Lake and Clark Streets.  The proposal was the work of a committee headed by William B. Ogden, the city’s first mayor, and it built upon a charter that had four years earlier declared the hamlet to be a village.

The Saloon Building was quite possibly the first city hall in Chicago.  Built a year earlier by Captain J. B. F. Russell and George W. Dole, its name was a reference to the French concept of a salon, or a well-appointed meeting place.

(JWB, 2011)
The charter of incorporation was approved at the meeting and later the state legislature enacted it into law on the March date in 1837.  Under the new charter the city’s geographical area increased from three-eighths of a square mile to 10.635 square miles, the boundaries being North Avenue to the north, Wood Street to the west, 22nd Street to the south, and Lake Michigan on the east.  The area occupied by old Fort Dearborn was not included.

Every male resident of the city over the age of 21 was required to give a minimum of three days annually to work on upkeep of the streets and alleys although anyone could skip the work if he paid a dollar for each day he chose to shirk the task.  This was serious work.  As late as July of 1838 there was a big to-do over the large pool of water on Lake Street at the corner of LaSalle, which was swarming with frogs.

The first election under the new charter was held on May 2, 1837 with William B. Ogden, the Democrat, receiving 492 votes to the 217 that his Whig opponent, John Kinzie, garnered.  The streets were in such a mess that Ogden, upon taking office, used some of his own money to try and improve them.

In July of 1837 the first census was taken and showed the total population of Chicago to be 4,170.  The number of buildings in the “city” was 492 with an assessed taxable value of $236,842.

It was not an auspicious beginning.  But the birthday girl grew up to be quite a lady.  In an editorial that ran in the Providence, Rhode Island Bulletin over 80 years ago, the writer summed up the city and the spirit that made her great in two paragraphs . . .

“Geography has conspired against Chicago’s innocence.  The shrewdest traders of pioneer days gathered there.  The ablest land promoters followed them.  Railways—it is the greatest railway center in America—fought some of their most strategic battles there.  Industry early began to make it headquarters for national agitation.”

“Fire has leveled it, but it has risen triumphantly from its ashes.  The furious growth has brought about staggering problems, but Chicago refuses to be staggered.  Even though the subsoil is unsuitable for tall buildings, they build them just the same.  They convert rivers into sewage systems, and whenever they feel like it arbitrarily fix the boundaries of the lake.”

“. . . We wouldn’t be Chicago for all the money in the world.  But that doesn’t keep us from admiring it tremendously and regarding it in many ways as our greatest city.”

I’d agree with that.  She ain’t an innocent.  She didn’t get to where she is today by sitting quietly by the lake with her legs crossed.  But she’s aged well.  You know, there’s pretty beauty, and there’s tough beauty.  My preference has always been for the latter.

Happy Birthday, Chicago.

(JWB, 2010)
(Information about the city of 1837 came from an article that ran in The Chicago Tribune on March 4, 1929.)

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Chicago: A Look Back at March 1


(JWB, 2010)

120 years ago today . . .
On March 1, 1892 The Chicago Tribune reported that visitors at the World’s Fair in Chicago, a monster undertaking that would be held 14 months later, would have Waukesha water to drink, furnished at one penny a glass.  The President of the Waukesha Hygeia Mineral Spring Company, James E. McElroy, a Chicagoan, outlined the plan.  Two months earlier Chicago had passed an ordinance giving the company the right to lay a pipeline into the city.  Forty miles of eight-inch pipe would connect the company’s supply in Wisconsin to the site of the fair on the south side of Chicago.  McElroy estimated the pipeline would be finished by July and that it would supply 1,000,000 gallons of spring water a day.  The only restriction placed on Hygeia was that the water served at the fair had to be served, bar fashion, at a cent a glass.

112 years ago today . . .
Chicago was slammed with the worst snowstorm in 16 years with 12 inches piling up, accompanied by winds reaching 52-miles-an-hour.  Just one death was reported as a result of the storm.  Poor old Gustav Lundquist, who had been employed for two years by the Union traction Company, had the job of keeping the LaSalle Street tunnel clean and in good repair.  He was given additional help because of the severity of the storm and at 3:30 p.m. was at the north end of the tunnel, supervising his crew while standing on the track used by north-bound trains.  Seeing a train approaching, Mr. Lundquist stepped over to the south-bound track, but a train was approaching on this track, too, and “before his companions could warn him of his danger he was struck and knocked against the tunnel wall.”  He was wedged so tightly that it took a half hour to release his body.  All of the city’s horse teams, along with 300 sewer department workers, were called to the First Ward to clear the snow thrown on the sides of the streets by the streetcar plows and the shovels of the sidewalk cleaners.  The snow was carted off to the foot of Randolph Street and the lake.  State Street merchants estimated the storm had cost them a half-million dollars in sales.

100 years ago today . . .
On March 1, 1912 Chicago took delivery of its first automobile fire engine, the first of three provided for in the city’s annual budget.  The roaring of the new engine “created a sensation on the streets,” according to The Tribune and “attracted a crowd to the north end of the city hall.” The engine weighed in at five tons with rear wheels that stood five feet high with spokes that were three inches thick.  Built by the Nott Fire Engine Company, it had a top speed of 35-miles-an-hour.  It was the first such fire engine to be built complete in the United States, one of only six in the country.

(JWB, 2008)
Also on this date Marshall Field & Co. announced the acquisition of the Trude building property at the corner of Wabash and Randolph, finishing its efforts to control the entire block bounded by State, Randolph, Washington, and Wabash.  The Tribune observed that the move would give to the company “the unique distinction of being the only one to occupy an entire city block, and also the largest area occupied by any strictly retail establishment in the world".  This parcel became the only piece of real estate in that block that was not directly acquired by the founder of the company, Marshall Field I, who had died in 1906.  The plan was to lease the building on that site until all the leases expired in 1915, then tear it down and build a new twelve-story structure at a cost of three-quarters of a million dollars.  Things must have moved along quickly; the Graham, Burnham & Co. addition on the site was completed by 1914.

90 years ago today . . .
To show how far what once was the city’s finest neighborhood had fallen from grace on March 1, 1922 The Tribune reported that an opium party was interrupted the night before at 2437 Prairie Avenue, when four men and three women “were brought back from their poppy dream wanderings” by the “dope squad” of the Cottage Grove station.  Mrs. Margaret Black, the landlady, and six others were arrested. All lived on Prairie and Indiana Avenues.

(JWB, 2007)
Also on this date it was announced that the Cubs had arrived in camp on Mr. Wrigley’s Catalina Island.  The Tribune noted that “Beautiful weather greeted the newcomers and their initial drill of hi-lo and throwing served to eliminate many pounds of the superfluous flesh accumulated during the winter of inactivity.”  Hack Miller, newly acquired from Oakland, “came into camp carrying enough beef to make a couple of ball players.”   Only one player failed to join the club in Los Angeles for the trip to camp.  Carter Elliott, an infielder, never showed.  Perhaps he knew what was coming.  The team finished 13 games behind the New York Giants with Carter Elliott not on the roster.

And from the more things change, the more they stay the same department, The Tribune reported on this date that “Mickey” Norris, a business agent for the Stone, Lime and Cement Teamsters’ Union, “stuck a revolver in his pocker yesterday and started out to ‘kill fourteen men.’”  Norris ended up shooting three men:  Michael Windle, a foreman for the White Paving Company, Joseph Doyle, Vice-President and business agent of the Ice Wagon Drivers’ Union, and John Reddington, a bartender.  All three were shot at a saloon belonging to Edward Healy at 4459 W. Madison Street.  “I was out to kill fourteen men I’ve got marked down,” Norris said.  “I would have got them, too, if the police had let me alone.”

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Roosevelt Bridge, Chicago

The Roosevelt Bridge raises in the middle of rush hour . . . mid-April of 2010 (JWB, 2010)
Whatever you do, do N-O-T obey the sign.  

Monday, February 27, 2012

The Reid-Murdoch Building (Part Two)


The Reid-Murdoch Building of 1914, a George C. Nimmons design
that follows the tenets of the Chicago Plan of 1909 (JWB, 2011)

Let’s return to the Reid-Murdoch story, a tale of two merchants who became millionaires in the rapidly growing city of Chicago and the great building that ultimately came to grace the north side of the river between LaSalle and Clark Street. 

Constructing a new warehouse at this location made sense.  The river in the early 1900’s still teemed with ships delivering hundreds of tons of produce each day and the railroads ran almost directly to the site.  On February 9, 1912 the Chicago Tribune glowed about the selection of the site, “From a purely real estate point of view the transaction is of notable importance, because of the fact that it marks the removal of another large wholesale concern form the central district to the north side.”

The paper also mentioned that the new warehouse would me “made to carry out the idea of the “Chicago plan” in connection with the buildings on the river.  The architect, George C. Nimmons, would set the building back a short distance from the water’s edge, leaving room for a concrete dock.  But that dock would be different from the unsightly affairs that lined the river.  It would be built on a level with Clark and LaSalle streets and would extend the length of the building so that people could enter the structure at any point along the riverfront. 

The plan was exactly what the Chicago Plan of 1909 specified for buildings along the river, and it was the plan that would dictate the plans for most of the great river buildings that were to follow.  Just look at the open spaces that separate such great buildings as the Wrigley Building, the Merchandise Mart, The Chicago Daily News Building, and Tribune Tower from the river.  The new warehouse for the company was planned as a trend-setter.   And it was.

George Nimmons, the architect who designed the million-dollar warehouse building, was prominent in Chicago architecture for a half-century.  He served as a transitional figure, connecting the classical Beaux Arts style of the 1880’s and 1890’s to the more streamlined style that would eventually lead to the great Art Deco buildings of the 1920’s.  He was born in Wooster, Ohio in 1867 and began his study of architecture in Europe before he had reached the age of 20.


Sleek, streamlined, functional -- the new style of design that the
second generation of Chicago architects was looking for (JWB, 2011)
He returned to the United States in 1885 and entered the firm of Burnham & Root, where he worked as a draftsman for ten years.  In 1897 he left to form a partnership with William K. Fellows, an association that lasted for 13 years.  Nimmons & Fellows concentrated largely on commercial and industrial designs.  Sleek, An example of one such design can be found on the east side of the North Branch of the Chicago River, today a residential building known as River Bank Lofts. In 1903 the firm also designed the 20-room Prairie style home for the President of Sears, Roebuck and Company, Julius Rosenwald, at 4901 South Ellis Avenue.

From 1910 until 1917 Nimmons worked alone, forming a larger practice after that period known as Nimmons & Company.  The Franklin Building of 1912 (720 S. Dearborn), the C. P. Kimball & Company Building of 1913 (39th and Michigan), the American Furniture Mart between 1923 and 1926 (680 N. Lake Shore Dr.), as well as Reid-Murdoch were all designed during this phase of his career.

From 1933 until 1945 Nimmons was the senior partner in the firm of Nimmons, Carr & Wright.  During this time he spent much of his time in Florida and developed a new interest in designing and building scale-model sailing ships, one of which was displayed at the Century of Progress Exposition.  The architect died on June 17, 1947.

The soaring tower that holds the most notable feature of Reid-Murdoch,
the four-sided illuminated clock (JWB, 2011)
Of the style he used in the Reid-Murdoch building, Nimmons wrote, “The characteristics of the style of treatment of industrial buildings that is mostly in favor now are Gothic in character and consist usually of piers marked on the exterior of the buildings, carried up only to the point where the concentrated loads disappear, similar to buttresses and also walls continued up without projecting cornices and terminated with ornamental copings; the corners of the building are strengthened by the use of piers heavier than the intermediate ones, the entrances emphasized by the use of ornamental tracery and ornament, and the sprinkler tank enclosed in a tower often placed at the main entrance and including one of the principal stairways.  While such designs are Gothic in character they are more and more exhibiting a freedom and originality that promise in time to develop into a well-defined architectural style for American industrial buildings.” [United State Department of the Interior, 1997]

And THERE is the point:  a newfound freedom and originality that would develop into a well-defined architectural style for American industrial buildings.  That’s what Louis Sullivan was talking about.  That is what Perkins, Griffin, Mahoney and Wright were striving to achieve.  And that’s what is going on in Reid-Murdoch.

So the beautiful new addition to the old, working river got built, and less than a year after its completion the river sent death to its doors. The S. S. Eastland, docked across the river from the warehouse was packed with 2,572 passengers on July 25, 1915 when at 7:28 a.m. it rolled sharply to port, ending up on its side with hundreds of passengers trapped underwater.  844 passengers, many of them women and children, along with four crew members, died in the disaster.  The basement and first floor of the Reid-Murdoch building were used as a temporary hospital and morgue.

Reid-Murdoch was the first project on the river to adhere to the Chicago Plan of 1909 with
the building set back from the river, a trend that would be repeated over and over (JWB, 2011)
Business resumed after the ordeal and Reid-Murdoch operated successfully until 1945 when it was acquired by the Sprague Warner-Kenny Corporation and became part of Consolidated Grocers, one of the nation’s largest food companies.  The plans were to operate Reid-Murdoch as a separate company but it would become part of vast empire that included 52 branches in every part of the country, a goliath that included 19 canneries, 15 pickle stations, and seven grocery processing plants.

In effect, the story that began way back in Dubuque in 1853 had come to an end.

A great building can have many lives, though, and on March 7, 1953 the Tribune announced that Chicago municipal court and county officials had agreed to ask the City Council to rent three floors of the building to consolidate three traffic courts.  Under the proposal three floors of the building would be rented for $300,000 a year with a ten-year lease in effect.  One million bucks was provided for the necessary remodeling.  When the bids were opened in 1954, they came to twice that amount: $1,962,737.

Subtle Arts and Crafts brickwork decorates the upper reaches of
a building designed as a warehouse (JWB, 2011)
That was a pretty good chunk of change for a building that Consolidated Foods would still be colleting rent on, so in 1955 the city agreed to buy the building for $2,130,000.  There was some controversy about the plan with a group of aldermen lobbying to build a new building along the just completed  Congress Expressway, but Mayor Kennelly eventually got what he wanted.  It served as the principal Traffic Court for the city until 1998.

Today the Friedman Properties (Preserving the Past.  Building the Future) owns the property, and the firm’s corporate offices are located there.  According to its website, Friedman put extensive work into re-purposing the structure, “replacing missing historic elements such as the large storefront windows with transoms, the original pier-and-bay spacing, pedimented terra-cotta panels in the end bays, and the transom above the banks of double-hung windows.”  Principal tenants include the Britannica Corporation and the World of Whirlpool, with a 30,000 square foot product experience center.

Chicago's Leading Lady glides past the nearly century-old Reid-Murdoch
building on a beautiful early September afternoon (JWB, 2011)
One thing that the restoration could not accomplish was the replacement of the building’s westernmost corner bay, which was gobbled up when the city embarked upon another project influenced by the Chicago Plan of 1909, the widening of LaSalle Street.  When that project began in September of 1927, the corner pier was shaved off and a new corner pier was created to resemble the eastern corner of the building.  It was a fairly sensitive attempt, and many people miss the fact that to the east side of the tower there are five bays between the tower and the corner pier while the west side only has four.

One thing that you can’t miss, though, is the beauty of this river queen, still reigning over the river nearly one hundred years after she was built. 

Friday, February 24, 2012

Summer in the City


Can it already be the end of February?  Just a few more days and we’ve entered the month of March and, soon, the beginning of spring.  And after the misery of a few cold rain showers, it will be summer – the giddy, glorious season of the sun.

The city from Diversey Harbor (JWB, 2011)
I’ve lived in a lot of places and visited a whole lot more, and I don’t think there is a better city in the summer sun than Chicago.  Just station yourself somewhere around Diversey Harbor on a sunny day, with the highbrow high-rises of the Gold Coast edging along the green expanse of Lincoln Park on the other, and the great towers of downtown in the distance.  You’ll see what I mean.

We set all that aside for the seasonal factoring of this waning set of dark months.  The sand berms, plowed up before the season began, guard the beaches and snow fences, soon to be picked up, line the length of the lakefront.  The gardens south of the Lincoln Park conservatory, lovely and lush this summer, lie stripped bare.  But there is still some light at 6:00, and a new season is about to begin.

We must be close . . . I just signed up for my first river tours of the season as a docent of the Chicago Architecture Foundation.  It doesn’t seem like two months since the last bridge-raising of the year took place.  I was lucky enough to be giving an architectural tour of the Chicago River when the Columbus Drive Bridge opened shortly before 9:00.  It’s always a magnificent sight . . . these massive bridges raising sequentially, stopping traffic on a Saturday morning, while the last few one per centers sail their yachts up the river.

The last bridge raising of the 2011 season --
The Columbus Drive bridge rises (JWB, 2011)
In a couple months they will all be raising once again, and the boaters will be heading out toward the lake and a whole new season of warmth and possibility.

But now the harbors are empty and, like the boaters, we have had just about enough of hoisting the summer part of ourselves into the dark of winter storage.

I always miss the summer.  It doesn’t matter how soft a cashmere scarf is, it’s still no substitute for sandals and shorts. 

For me it was a great summer.  Jill and I became grandparents for the first time and little Maddie Jane, she of the ready smile and sunny disposition, has made us a couple of decades younger.  Picco the Pooch came to stay with our other daughter down in Champaign, and the little guy made us remember how great it is to take a dog for a walk when the weather’s fine and you’ve got the time.

At work on a C.A.F.-First Lady architectural tour
(B. Hoffmann, 2011)
I spent much of the time on the deck of an architectural tour boat.  It didn’t seem like it at the time, and it doesn’t seem like it now, but I gave 120 tours of the Chicago River since the beginning of the season last May.  Volunteering for the river tour is a dream job for an old retired teacher.

You can’t beat the experience.  I’ve stood up there with a microphone in my hand in every sort of weather.  Pouring rain, slashing down so hard I couldn’t even see the buildings on Erie Park from the river, the only time all summer where not a single sole was up on deck with me.  One dark Wednesday I stood in a cold rain with the wind blowing so hard that city officials closed the lakefront bike path for fear that the 25-foot waves would wash someone into the drink.

I got stung between my forefinger and middle finger by an angry wasp one sunny afternoon as I was pointing to the top of 360 North Michigan.  Had a full cup of iced coffee land at my feet after someone waving to our boat from the Adams Street Bridge lost his grip on the Starbuck’s cup. 

But there were far more glorious Chicago moments than bad.  I gave a tour to the President of Croatia and a couple months later to Rosie O’Donnell.  A group of five bridesmaids, all in yellow, along with their attending groomsmen and the bride and groom captivated everyone on the boat one Saturday morning as they greeted us from the Kinzie Street Bridge.  And on a beautiful October afternoon to little Maddie Jane and her mom.   Maddie slept the whole 90 minutes. 

Chicago waits for the promise of summer (JWB, 2009)
Mostly, though, I remember the sun and the beauty, always brand new, of this spectacular city, wrapped ‘round by a gentle river and capricious lake.   It’s a great city, a complex city, caught between the extremes of nurturer and destroyer, of beauty and terror.

A city that rises from the flatness of the Midwestern prairie, throwing up shimmering spires next to a lake that laps at the grasslands.  It’s a great city, a world-class city, and I can’t wait for summer to show it off.