Thursday, October 18, 2012

Mies van der Rohe-Welcome to Chicago







Saint Saviour's Chapel, the God Box, on the campus of the Illinois Institute of Technology (JWB, 2011)
Big day in Chicago on this day, October 18 of 1938. 

Ludwig Mies van der Rohe made it to the city.  Halfway through his long career at that point, he first bunked down at the Stevens Hotel, now the Conrad Hilton, for a month, moving later to the Blackstone just to the north.  From there he walked several blocks north to the Armour Institute of Technology, located at the Art Institute at the time.

JWB, 2011
It was this school where he was named as the head of the Department of Architecture.  It was in this capacity that he was given the job of designing a new campus, bringing about a transformation that John Holabird, head of the search committee that chose Mies, hoped would establish “the finest school in the Country.”

And it was at this school that Mies made his inaugural address, saying, “The long path from material to function to creative work has a single goal, to create order out of the desperate confusion of our time.”

Franze Schulz, in his excellent biography of Mies, wrote . . .

He was an abstractionist by nature, with no national sympathies, no political ideology, a perfect Prometheus of the new modernism.  Just as naturalism in painting was increasingly understood to be a superficiality, a leftover cosmetic of history that concealed the body and bone of the art, its equivalent in architecture—ornament or composition identified with any historical, that is to say, outmoded, period—was regarded as a disguise, an unwelcome concealment of the essence of building, which Mies had insisted, ever since1922, was structure.  He was now in a position to put that old conviction to work.

Not a "longing to become lost"; rather, "the hope of finding oneself"  (JWB, 2011)
One of the most modest of Mies’s designs for the new campus was the plan, developed in the early 1950’s, for Saint Saviour's Chapel on the new campus of what had become the Illinois Institute of Technology.  You can find what the Mies van der Rohe Society says about the chapel here.

The Society appraises the chapel in this way:

In spite of its humble appearance, the Chapel is an important point in Mies’ oeuvre, both historically and architecturally . . . The building stands apart as Mies’ only masonry building outside of Europe.  Unlike his other work in America, the walls constructed of blond bricks in an English bond pattern are not merely decorative, but also support the small building.  This marks a break from Mies’ usual division of structure and enclosure.  According to Mies, the simple walls are intended to draw the eye upward, making the Chapel a space for contemplation.  Rather than encouraging “a longing to become lost, “ Mies intended that visitors would feel “the hope of finding oneself” in the small space.”

THIS is the way great design finds a way to turn a corner (JWB, 2011)
The chapel is today dedicated to the memory of Robert Franklin Carr, a tireless philanthropist who died in 2009.  During his life he served on the boards of Children’s Memorial Hospital, Brookfield, Zoo, the Better Government Association, Graceland Cemetery, Grant Hospital, and Northwestern University.

If you are looking for a place in this city to contemplate what It must have been like for Mies to leave his native land midway through his life, relocate to a city where his language was a foreign tongue, begin work on design that arguably changed architecture in this country, and do it all in the lonely company of a good cigar and a well-kept fedora, Carr Memorial Chapel is as good a place as any to start.

So welcome to Chicago, Mies.  We’re glad you came to visit.

Gunny Harboe explains the first phase of his renovation plans for the exterior of the building, which was finished
in 2009.  The interior renovation was completed in 2011.  (JWB, 2011) 

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Michigan Avenue-Autumn


JWB, 2012


A wind has blown the rain away
and blown the sky away and
all the leaves away,
and the trees stand. I think,
I too, have known autumn too long.

I’m not sure I agree with e. e. cummings.  I’m not sure it’s possible to know autumn too long.  On a physical and metaphorical level it’s a great time of year.

But it doesn’t last long.

Two things happened as I biked to and from the Chicago Architecture Foundation this week to underscore that fact.  On Monday city crews began putting up the snow fences along Lake Shore Drive between Jackson Boulevard and Randolph Street.

Today the bulldozer was busy at work north of the Oak Street beach, pushing up sand berms between the lake and the Outer Drive, a buffer against those nasty lake-effect snow squalls that are to come.

They can make all the winter preparations they want . . . nothing can deny the beauty of this city autumn.  That’s why I like the above photo so much.  It has the contrast of seasons in it that is like so many of the contrasts we see in this great paradox of a city.

The lions at the Art Institute stand guard as the locust trees along Michigan Avenue change colors.   Under the color-laden limbs, the chess-checker guys, summertime fixtures, set up shop once again, inviting folks to match wits as breezy seventies tunes play from the speakers behind the table holding the game boards.

Soon they’ll be gone, too.

For now, though, it all comes together . . . great weather, great scenery, a great city, all of it moving along toward a future we can’t avoid.

Friday, October 12, 2012

The Ugliest Utility Pole in Chicago


I’m lucky in all sorts of ways.  One particularly piece of good fortune is that I have found the Chicago Architecture Foundation as a source of satisfaction in the years following my retirement.  As a bonus I get some exercise most of the days I lead tours because I can jump on my bike and ride the lakefront path to the river or to Jackson and Michigan where my walking tours start.

Every time I ride west on Jackson Street toward the Railway Exchange Building, I think the same thing between Lake Shore Drive and Columbus Drive.  Here I am in one of the great open spaces in Chicago, halfway across the space that breaks the north-south axis of the 319-acre Grant Park into two halves.

To the south there are the majestic jets of water rising from Edward H. Bennett’s Buckingham Fountain.  The park surrounding the fountain is filled with flowers, shrubbery, and trees.

And right in the middle of it all, sitting on the south border of Jackson Boulevard is a big, honking utility poll with wires of every size and description hanging from it.

I call it the ugliest utility pole in Chicago.

How much better would it be if this:

JWB, 2012

could somehow be turned into this:

JWB, 2012

Just thinking . . .

Saturday, October 6, 2012

The Kelpies-Chicago


The 1:10 scale moquettes of The Kelpies, one of which sees its breath on a
crisp October's afternoon  (JWB, 2012)
Every year tens of thousands of parents pack their kids up and transport them to the Field Museum or the Shedd Aquarium   School field trips make sure that thousands and thousands more kids investigate the wonders inside the two huge institutions on the lakefront.

I’m surprised no one has made a fuss about this . . . but let this serve as a warning.  For on the north lawn of the Field Museum, beneath the bluff on which the Shedd Aquarium sits, there are two creatures that have for hundreds and hundreds of years lured little children to take a ride on their backs, only to carry the poor little darlings to a death by drowning.

Scottish sculptor Andy Scott's Kelpies will be here through August 13, 2013 (JWB, 2012)
The Kelpies have come to Chicago.  Keep your distance. 

For over a thousand years, these equestrian monsters have roamed the lochs and waterways of Scotland.  Legend has it that if a person touches the silvery skin of a Kepie, he or she will stick to it and be carried into the nearest river or lake.

Not hard to see why the Kepies have come to Chicago.  There is plenty of water around here.

Notice the human figure at the base of the horse's head--an
approximation of the height of normal human in relation to the
height of the eventual ten-story Kelpies outside of Glasgow (JWB, 2012)
The Kepies on the grassy sward of the Field Museum are actually maquettes, 1:10 scale models that Scottish sculptor Andy Scott designed.  The sculptures on which the models are based will, when finished, reach the height of a ten-story building and sit on a 740-acre park, known as the Helix project, being created around a canal link in Scotland that will connect the Firth of Forth with the Clyde in Glasgow.  You can read about the amazing Helix project here

The Kelpies image up just one  part of a monumental undertaking on the part of Chicago Sculpture International.  Its “Activate Chicago with Sculpture 2012” is made up of four interrelated shows, the longest of which will run through the summer of 2013.

They look innocent enough, but don't get too close . . . (JWB, 2012)
“The Installation Experiment” opened on September 9 and consists of seven installation works in the Chicago Arts District in Pilsen.  The second show, “Form in Flora II,” will conclude on November 3.  It is made up of sculpture that can be found within the Lincoln Park Conservatory Building.  “Six to the Third” is a show that only has a week left.  Located at the Lillstreet Gallery on North Ravenswood, the show is made up of small-scale sculptures no higher than six inches.

The Kelpies are part of the Chicago Parks District-Chicago Sculpture International Outdoor Exhibition that will run through August of 2013.  This show presents 54 large scale public outdoor works that run along the lakefront from Belmont Harbor to the Field Museum and along Stockton Drive from Fullerton Avenue to North Avenue.

JWB,2012
The Kelpies, when installed at the Helix Project, will be stainless steel plated and will stand 30 meters tall.  SH Structure has been selected to fabricate the giant heads, which are to be completed by the end of 2013.  Inside one of the horse’s heads will be a “visitor attraction,” designed by Nicoll Russell Studios.  According to the architects, “The visitor experience centers on the ‘mystical legends of the Kelpie’ and a vertical journey of exploration within one of the horse’s heads which culminates at a high level platform where Art and Engineering combine to create a highlight to the visitor experience.’”

The Kelpies, when finished, must necessarily be huge because they will be vying for attention with the world’s largest boat lift, the Falkirk Wheel, itself a sculptural piece of engineering that is a visual stunner. 


Look upon my works, Ye Mighty, and despair . . . (JWB, 2012)
Although Chicago’s Kelpies are less intimidating than the ten-story mythical monsters that will eventually roam the fen outside Glasgow, they are still darned eye-catching.  Just don’t get too close.  The lake is only 200 yards away, and they can have you at the bottom of it before you can get your ChaCha application to tell you what’s going on.